Don't Restrict Immigration, Tax It

http://www.tcsdaily.com/article.aspx?id=062006D

Don't Restrict Immigration, Tax It
By Nathan Smith : BIO| 20 Jun 2006

The goal of this article is to outline an open borders policy that achieves “Pareto-improvement.” Sounds boring, I know. But bear with me. Pareto-improvement, a term from economics, means that some people are made better off while no one is made worse off. In a complex world, it is impossible for a policy literally to make no one worse off. But policies can be designed that, while many benefit, no social group can be identified that is systematically harmed.

Simple freedom of migration, like simple free trade, does not satisfy the Pareto-improvement criterion. While the theory of comparative advantage proves that when Country A opens its markets to goods from Country B, Country A as a whole will be better off, within Country A there will be “winners,” such as workers and capital owners in the industries which can penetrate new export markets, and “losers,” such as import-competing industries.

Likewise, if Country A opens its borders to immigration from Country B, the native-born population of Country A as a whole will be better off — by “a fraction of 1%” in Americans' case, according to one estimate — but there will be some losers — US high-school dropouts may be earning as much as 8% less than they would be absent immigration.

Whether this kind of policy is a good thing depends on the social welfare function, that is, on how much policymakers should value the well-being of different people. Many critiques of immigration assume that the government should emphasize the well-being of low-skilled native-born Americans, discount the well-being of American-born employers and skilled workers who benefit from complementarities with immigrants, and ignore the well-being of immigrants themselves. Stated baldly, this doesn't sound very moral. And one tactic of immigration advocates is simply to make it explicit. “Are low-skilled Americans the master race?” asks economist-blogger Bryan Caplan. (Some call this patriotism, but they are confusing love of country, a virtue, with non-love of people from other countries, a vice.)

To make the argument that underlies Caplan's rhetorical salvo, we would have to venture outside economics into moral philosophy. We might invoke Rawls' “veil of ignorance” device. If you had to design a world order from behind a veil of ignorance as to your position in it, would you (be honest now) design one in which you had a 42 percent chance of being born into a country with under $1,000 GDP per capita, and forced to stay there, not by distance or natural obstacles, but by man-made visa regimes and border controls — all in order to protect the wages of people at least 10-20 times better off than yourself? However, it's my belief that however incontrovertible the case for it may be from the perspective of reason and justice, before advocating a course of action that one foresees is likely to harm real people, one should pause and see if there's a better way.

Fortunately there is. Economists have already solved the problem in the context of trade theory. To make free trade, or freedom of migration, Pareto-improving, it may be necessary to tax the winners and compensate the losers.

To apply this approach to migration is actually easier than with trade, because the biggest group of winners — the immigrants themselves — is an easily identifiable group, with distinct legal status. As for the losers, while there is no conclusive evidence about who (if anyone) is harmed by immigration, we could err on the generous side by providing immigration adjustment assistance to the American-born working poor generally.

How to Tax Immigration

The reason that open borders can lead to Pareto-improvement is because, aside from being unfair, border restrictions are also hugely inefficient. A whole lot of people who would be far more productive in America are forced to stay somewhere else. Since immigration makes the pie much bigger, everyone can get a bigger piece. Here's how.

* First, an open borders policy must be resolute in denying welfare and taxpayer-funded social services to (most) immigrants, because any social safety net provided in the US will represent a higher standard of living than what prevails in many countries.

* So, as an alternative “social safety net” for immigrants, every immigrant — or guest worker — should deposit at a US consulate (or at private firms authorized by the US government to administer this transaction) an amount equal to the cost of deporting them. Having made this deposit, the guest worker should be deported at his or her own pre-paid expense if he becomes unable to support him- or herself.

Second, one interest that is typically ignored in US policy discussions is the source countries. The effect of emigration on poor countries is ambiguous. Emigration may alleviate unemployment. Emigrants send home remittances. Emigrants may boost the economy when they return with skills and savings. But poor countries can also suffer from “brain drain,” losing their best and brightest, including skilled workers in crucial fields such as health care. To offset possible negative effects of brain drain, we can increase the incentive of guest workers to return home through a forced savings program. When a guest worker is issued a visa, a special savings account would be created for him. When he gets a job, a certain percentage of each paycheck would automatically be deposited in this account. Guest workers will not be allowed to withdraw money from the account, except in their home countries. Or they can stay, accumulate a certain amount — a citizenship threshold — in their guest-worker savings account, and become citizens, at the cost of forfeiting the savings accounts. Forfeited savings accounts could be distributed equally among all US citizens, on an annual basis.

Finally, a surtax will be charged to guest workers, the proceeds of which will be paid out either to all American workers, or targeted to the working poor, ensuring that American-born workers will have a higher standard of living than guest workers who earn the same market wage.

In a recent article — “A Right to Migrate” — I suggested that the surtax could be set at 12.4% (i.e., the Social Security payroll tax), the mandatory savings rate at 20%, and the citizenship threshold at $50,000. But the important thing is that these are variables. By manipulating the levels of these variables, Congress could achieve a wide range of policy objectives. The policy is compatible with a moderately restrictionist approach to immigration, if the citizenship threshold, as well as the surtax and/or the mandatory savings rate, were raised to very high levels. Or, if we wanted to maximize revenue, we keep the surtax and the citizenship threshold at a moderately high level, low enough to attract a large number of immigrants and guest workers, high enough to glean substantial revenues from them. Or, if our top priority is foreign aid, we would set the citizenship threshold and the mandatory savings rate high, but the surtax very low.

Given the technical complexity of managing immigration by means of these policy instruments, Congress might be wise to delegate immigration policy to an independent agency, similar to the Federal Reserve, which would be given a broad mandate, such as: “Maximize the foreign aid effect of migration, subject to the constraint that the poorest 30% of American workers are compensated for any migration-related welfare losses, while keeping the total number of guest workers at or below 15% of the US resident population.” This agency would then continuously study patterns of migration and their effect on labor markets, source countries, and the American-born working poor, and then adjust its three policy instruments periodically.

But it would never set quotas or caps. Migration taxes would monetize, and force potential migrants to internalize, the perceived negative externalities of immigration. But the government would abdicate the discretion (except on national security grounds) to admit or reject particular immigrants. The migration decision would be left where it should be, in the hands of the immigrant, who has the best information of all about just how badly he or she wants to come to America.

Who Would Use the Guest-Worker Visa?

I hasten to say — my Pareto-improvement criterion requires it — that current (legal) immigrants would not be affected by the new policy, nor would future immigrants coming through currently available legal channels. Our entire immigration apparatus would exist, at least for a while, while a new channel of immigration opened up alongside it. Immigrants through traditional channels would become a special set of immigrants exempted from the extra taxes other immigrants had to pay. Which raises the question: why would anyone want to use the new guest-worker visa at all?

One reason is that many people — indeed, most people in this world — are, in effect, permanently excluded from America by our border regime. Since immigration became a hot topic, I have been surprised to see, not only how many ordinary people, but how many leading opinion-makers don't understand this. For example, Duncan Currie in the Weekly Standard, in arguing that a US-Mexico border fence is not the moral equivalent of the Berlin Wall, wrote this:

“Despite… elite skepticism, polls show that most Americans support security fencing along the Mexican border. Unless they are all nostalgic for Walter Ulbricht and Erich Honecker's East Germany, these Americans seem to reject the 'Berlin Wall' sneers. They must appreciate the stark difference between a totalitarian regime that treated its own citizens as prisoners and a liberal democracy that merely wishes to drive illegal aliens into the proper immigration channels.” (my italics)

What Currie and others fail to appreciate is that only 10,000 visas are available to unskilled immigrants on an annual basis, compared to tens of millions who would like to come. “Proper immigration channels” were never available to the vast majority of the 12 million illegals who work here on farms, in shops, offices, and homes. If they admired America, if they loved America, if they wanted to be part of America, illegality was their only option.

Politicians like to say that illegal immigrants will go to “the back of the line.” This is nonsense, because it suggests that while there is a long line to get into the US, illegal immigrants could have waited and gotten to the front eventually. Our immigration system permanently shuts out most of humanity based on their place of birth.

In addition to the low-skilled laborers that our current border regime does not admit legally, the guest-worker visa outlined above would no doubt be attractive to tourists and students, who, not intending to work, would not be affected by extra taxes on earnings. But if my experience is any guide, many people who could come to the US through normal channels might nonetheless opt for the guest-worker visa.

My wife, a Russian national, recently received her Green Card. The process took two years — a few months to get a fiancée visa to the US, which was our longest-ever separation, and then a year-and-a-half after her arrival before her permanent residency was authorized. During that time she was not allowed to work. The waiting and uncertainty, the separations, and the forced unemployment, were traumatic and depressing. And I would estimate her lost earnings and other costs associated with the process at about $50,000. It would have been more morally satisfying for us to have earned that $50,000 and paid it in taxes, knowing that it was being channeled to less fortunate Americans to help them adjust to the marginal labor-market impact of my wife's immigration.

Creating a new channel of immigration can't make guest workers worse off. If surtaxes and mandatory savings are too big a burden, they simply won't come, and they'll be in the same position as before. You can never harm a person by giving him one more option.

Hobbes, Locke and Border Enforcement

Since there's been persistent divergence between de jure and de facto US policy on immigration, any new policy proposal needs to come with a comment on enforceability. Here, too, taxing rather than restricting immigration has its advantages.

There's a widespread belief that the federal government is willfully refusing to enforce our immigration laws. I doubt it. Consider the following back-of-the-envelope calculation: “The INS inspects approximately 300 to 350 million foreign nationals each year for admission to the United States,” according to the testimony of one Mark A. Mancini before the Judiciary Committee in 1999. Subtracting 24 million who actually do come, let's round that off to 300 million would-be visitors or migrants. Pew Research Center estimates that 500,000 cross the southern border each year. Another 100,000 may overstay their visas. This implies that — if applicants for US visas are a reasonable proxy for the number who wish to come — our border regime deters or prevents 99.8% of unauthorized would-be entrants to the United States. That's not an “open system of non-borders,” as Victor Davis Hanson has described it. The US border regime must be one of the most effective systems of mass coercion in human history. Yet it still falls short.

A year ago I wrote an article called “Hobbes, Locke, and the Bush Doctrine,” which began with the words: “A struggle is underway between two ideas: liberal democracy and sovereignty… It goes back to 17th-century England, where the respective proponents of the two views were John Locke and Thomas Hobbes.”

I used this conceptual framework to discuss the Iraq War, but Locke and Hobbes are equally applicable to immigration. Locke believed that government is based on a social contract. A contract implies consent. When Jefferson and the Founding Fathers affirmed, in the Declaration of Independence, that “governments… derive their just powers from the consent of the governed,” they were channeling Locke. Foreigners are not part of our social contract. With respect to them, we are in a state of nature. To Locke, the moral law is binding in the state of nature, so they cannot justly do, or threaten, violence to our persons or property, nor vice versa. Hence, in the Lockean framework, our government does not have the “just power” to prevent the entry of (peaceful) foreigners through coercion. Historian Paul Johnson describes immigration to America in 1815, when the American polity was closer to its Lockean roots:

“It was an astonishing moment of freedom in the world's history. An Englishman, without passport or papers, health certificate or any other documentation — without luggage for that matter — could plunk down £10 at a shipping counter in Liverpool and go aboard. He got nothing but water on board and had to provide for his own food. He might go down to the bottom but, if lucky, in due course he went ashore in New York, no one asking him who he was or where he was going. He then vanished into the entrails of the new society.” (The Birth of the Modern, p. 204)

Hobbes believed in a social contract, too, but “consent” could be exacted by force. For Hobbes, in the absence of a social contract, the moral law is not binding. So, since illegal immigrants are not part of our social contract, we can do anything we want to them, shut them out, deport them, kill them, whatever.

Our border policies can be justified in Hobbesian terms but not in Lockean terms. Of course, we are free to be eclectic in our appropriation of 17th-century philosophers' ideas. The problem is that our polity is generally a Lockean one, and as such it is not good at enforcing Hobbesian laws. We regard illegal immigrants, in Lockean fashion, as human beings with rights and dignity. This attitude is not consistent with the creation of effective deterrents to illegal immigration. Since illegal immigrants are hard to catch, and their economic payoff is huge, punishment adequate to deter them would have to be very severe. Probably nothing short of regular pogroms would work. A Hobbesian would have no objections to that (“the Soveraigne is judge of what is necessary for the Peace and Defence of his Subjects”) but we do.

Unlike immigration restrictions, immigration taxes are compatible with the principle of consent of the governed. A foreigner who comes to America with a guest-worker visa would thereby consent to pay the associated taxes. A foreigner who comes here without a visa would be guilty, not so much of illegal entry as of a form of tax evasion, and the state would respond, not by deporting him, but by confiscating his property. Enforcement would still be a challenge and require political will, but it would be possible, as it is not now, to get incentives right within the constraints of our ideas of justice.

A Paradigm Shift

In principle, since taxing rather than restricting immigration is in the interests of the median voter, a majoritarian democracy should be willing to pass it. Yet the idea of using immigration as a revenue source to offset perceived negative externalities has hardly been mentioned in the immigration debate. I don't think doubts about its feasibility are the reason. Rather, there's an ethical hang-up: people think it's discriminatory to make immigrants pay higher taxes, yet somehow it's not discriminatory to keep them out altogether, which hurts them much more.

Still, I think taxing immigration is an idea with a future, simply because it's the “rational middle ground” for which everyone is looking.

Nathan Smith is a TCS contributing writer.

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A really bad day…

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Composting toilet

On Feb 19, 2004, at 9:47 AM, LarenCorie wrote:

Personally I hate chemical toilets, but I insist on having a
toilet in my van, so I have developed a batch composting
toilet system, that I like enough that I even use in my
house, now. That is a subject for a different thread.

I'd love to know more about your toilet composting system.

Hello Chris;

I am slowly developing a system, which I hope I will be able
to sell over the Internet, but right now there are still a couple
of parts that I need to develop, before its ready for the market.
However, I can give you my opinion on how to put together a real
good system for a van.

Okay, first there are a variety of approaches used in the composting
toilet industry. I won't get into anything about the big systems, except
provide this link to “The Humanure Handbook” which is the bible
of residential composting toilets.

http://www.weblife.org/humanure/default.html

There is a list of parameters, which help define the design
of a system for use in vans, RVs, and boats. Size was critical.
So is the effect of the vehicle movement. There have been
a couple of systems designed for this market. Both were
much too large, for our purpose, and one even required a
step up, with the seat about 24″ above the floor. Both
require nearly 5ft² of floor space. One system had a
clear-out door on the bottom-front, and developed leak
problems. Yuck! What I have designed is a “desiccating,
urine separating, batch type, sawdust, composting toilet”
That is the shortest description I can give. What that
means, will be explained below. I will tell you how to,
very easily, make your own van composter, which has
every function my fancy design has, except for the
urine separation function, and even offers a working
technique to achieve that.

Here is another very short description:

“All you have to do is, buy one of these, and vent it”

http://www.campmor.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=13784&

prmenbr=226

If you already have the bucket, you can buy just the seat:

http://www.campcircle.com/products.php?cid=511&pid=9880-03

BTW……These are very good prices. If you do happen to find
btter, please post them to the group.

Now, it really isn't quite that simple, but it is pretty close.

We can use the “Luggable Loo” as our starting point. Then,
to improve on the function of the basic bucket toilet, you
will need to do a few things.

1) Make a concerted effort to never pee in it. Not only does urine
make up a large part of human waste, and can be dealt with much
easier in a jug, it also makes a huge, very smelly mess, when you
mix it with the solid waste. That is one (a big one) of the many
problems with chemical toilets. Almost all of the smell is from
the mixing of the liquids and the solids. Your action of using
a urinal, can serve the same function as the separator does
in a urine separating composting toilet. A gallon jug makes
a great urinal. Guys can just remove the cap. Women can use
a funnel, or get one of these:

http://www.campmor.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=13827&

prmenbr=226

http://www.campmor.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=13823&

prmenbr=226

If you want to make a more elaborate system, you can
use a gallon jug, turned upside down, cut open, as a wall
urinal, with a drain tube, running from the spout, down
to a storage tank. A spray bottle of water makes a
very functional rinse/flush system. Put a couple of
drops of dish detergent in it to act as a wetting agent,
to facilitate better rinsing. (it contain glycerin) Once
urinal has been in a closed tank or bottle for about
two days, the few bad bacteria that were in it have
been killed, and it can safely be sprayed out onto
a lawn or dumped most anywhere.

2) You need a cover material, to sprinkle over the solid
waste, after deposit. Sawdust works very well. Wood fire
ash is excellent, too. That is what I use in mine. Wood ash
contains potash, which is a prime ingredient in fertilizer.
It is often added to compost piles. When it is added
directly to the toilet, it keeps the smell down, interferes
with flies, and speeds the drying process. BTW…put a
layer of ash or sawdust in the bottom, before using. By
using this cover material, you have changed your simple
bucket toilet into one of the most popular, and functional
types of composting toilets, a “Sawdust Composter”

If you are now thinking about that fly comment, a quick
spray with any flying insect spray will solve the problem
for days, if not weeks. The spray fumes will also never
spread in the van, because the toilet will be continually
vented to outside.

Now we have a system that will separate, and will cover,
and will begin to dry, and begin the composting process.

3) Add a strong plastic bag, as a removable canister liner.
Kitchen size trash bags are the right size. The pull-string
bags are probably the most convenient. The best color is
black. This is for two reasons. One is basic aesthetics. It
just looks better when you can't see into the toilet. The
other is so that flies can't see inside. If they can't see,
they won't fly in to find a place to lay their eggs. The
bags will allow you to deposit your “treasure” in a variety
of places. The best place is a compost pile, where it can
continue its natural return to the environment. You can also
dig a shallow hole to bury the waste, then put your plastic
liner bag into an adequately sized sealed baggie, to deposit
it without littering, at a later time. I just dump mine in a
secluded spot, back in my woods, and burn the bag. This
was the batch part of the formula. It allows a 'batch'
to be taken from the toilet, to continue its composting
process, while a new batch is being collected. A five gallon
bucket toilet, with attention given to separation, and use
of a cover material, will furnish you with as much as seven
weeks of full time use for one person, between batches.
A three gallon bucket allows you about 3½ weeks of use.
If your use is only part time, and the system is vented
to desiccate (dry) the compost, then you might go for
months before having to deal with the disposal part.

So, that is a “partially separatintg, batch type, sawdust,
composting toilet system” All we need now is……..

4) Venting……….This is where the mechanical fidgeting
comes in. If you happen to have an old round shop-vac
around, that you can cannibalize for parts, you might
want to steal the flex hose, and the coupling, where it
attaches to the round canister. Those usually have an
inside section that sticks out a little, and points down.
That part can be used to hold the upper edge of the
liner bag (the rest of the liner bag will just overhang
the bucket, and be held in place by the seat/bucket
connection. That inner part of the shop-van connection
needs to be in a location were it will not get soiled, but
should optimize the removal of any unfortunate gaseous
discharges (don't ya just love the language ;O) Anyway,
“in loo” of using shop-vac parts (I couldn't resist that
one) you can make the vent hose out of whatever you
find, that will work. HD has a variety of vent tubing
for sale, and there are fittings in the plastic plumbing
section, that will fit the vent hose, and screw together
through the hole you make near the top of the side of
the bucket. The amount of airflow for continual venting
is only a couple of CFMs, but you will want more, for
when the lid is open. At least 10CFM.

5) The Fan…What I have is a “Nicro” Solar vent fan,
which has a small Solar electric cell, and a nine volt
battery, so that it will run a couple of days, without
sunshine. I even saw some little hand held cooling
fans, at the dollar store, which seemed appropriate.
You will need to figure that part out. This will also
provide your van with general stale air/humidity
exhaust, which brings in fresh air. The composter
could also be vented out through an air-to-air heat
exchanger, so the about half of the lost heat gets
transferred to warm the cold incoming fresh air,
or cool the incoming air in the summer. This will
keep you van smelling fresher than it did before
you installed the toilet.

6) If you downsize, to a three gallon bucket, it will
be closer to standard toilet height and, can more
easily store under your bed platform, or in a short
cabinet. Just open the door, pull the toilet out, and
have the paper dispenser mounted on the inside of
the door. Your urinal can store in the same place.

That is all there is to it. Mine is only different, in
that it has a stylish looking outer shell, that its batch
canister sets within. That shell is vented, and I am
developing the urine separation system, which will
require making special molds to cast the custom
pieces. Most of the differences are cosmetic, and
just dress it up for the marketplace. This is not
theoretical. I have been using this type of system
for many months as my only toilet. It also requires
no chemicals, or water, like the chemical toilets do,
And, it produces natural beginning compost, instead
of that nasty, vile, gagging, pollution that chemical
toilets create. BTW, the drying kills most of the
bad bacteria. Read “The Humanure Handbook”
and you will understand much better.

-Laren Corie-
Passive Solar Building Design Since 1975

“Sandy Stone” wrote;

> One subject I have never seen addressed is storage of the sawdust.

Hello Sandy;

I am sorry. I put out that long post spontaneously, and
there is easily enough to the subject for a book, or more.

> Seems to me that a 5 gallon waste receptacle would require a second
> 5 gallon bucket full of sawdust. Maybe a 3 gallon container might do,
> but certainly no smaller than that. Storage space in a van is already
> at a premium, and that extra bucket for sawdust takes up a fair
> amount of room. I guess we could pack sawdust into a plastic lined
> cardboard box – that would help. Is there another more space
> efficient way to handle the sawdust storage?

Sawdust does take up a lot of room. In my mind, way too much room.
There is also a problem with procuring sawdust. Wood ash contains
potash, which is one of the primary ingredients in fertilizer.  It is
also the ingredient lacking in compost, so it is a real natural to add
wood ash to the toilet.  It is also an excellent cover material, and
stores in a much small space than sawdust. Only about a half gallon
of wood ash, is needed to cover a 5 gallon batch. That is a ratio of
10:1.  You can store it in a can, or a bag, or you can keep it in a
dispenser with a shaker top, to sprinkle out the wood ash powder.
I prefer a one gallon metal can, with a snug fitting lid, and a small
scoop, which holds a few of ounces of ash powder. I never use a
full scoop.

> I have an old book titled 'The Toilet Papers' by Sim Van Der
> Ryn that details the history of human waste disposal. Particularly
> interesting is an 'earth closet' design from 1906. It incorporates
> a urinal that empties into an earth lined pan that is vented to the
> outside.

Interesting……That must be one of the earlier documentations
of a urine separation system.

> The waste bucket itself is backed by a bottom-hinged door that
> opens to become a ramp, and the bucket slides down and outside,
> presumably to be emptied by one's lackey. But its best feature
> is the covering mechanism – equivalent to our flush device. The
> covering material (dirt, I think, or maybe sand) was stored in
> a cabinet mounted behind and above the waste receptacle. A
> lever on the front lowered the cabinet bottom and dry dirt
> flowed into the waste bucket!

The design of a system for a van is very unique. Size is a major,
and really the dominating parameter. The movement of the van
is a helpful aid in shaking down the compost and creating room
for more. Due to the movement, it is necessary to re-cover some
areas, later.  It is necessary to optimize the cover material as
well. Wood ash takes up less room, for its ability to cover, than
other materials, like sawdust. It is also easier for a VanDweller
to replenish a supply of wood ash.  Ash is available around any
place where people camp and build fires. My suggestion of a
“can” for ash storage, relates also to the ability to collect ash,
that may be still warm, and holds the potential of containing
live coals. The sealed metal can will extinguish any coals, and
alleviate any danger of fire..

There is another part of my 'system,' which I left out of
my opening long post. That is the separation of the paper
into a third container, with a sealed lid.  I keep a plastic
grocery bag in that container. Those bags are small, and
easy to tie closed, and dispose of easily in a trash can.
This also keeps the 'compost' free of any manufactured
materials, so that it will return to nature far quicker.
Even with three containers, this system takes up only
as much room as a chemical toilet, yet it will go over
ten times longer, between emptyings for the same
volume tank.

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The New Face of Bamboo

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60233

The New Face of Bamboo
Max Hunter

Bamboo is a naturally beautiful and durable alternative to the limited global supply of hardwood. In fact, bamboo is actually not a wood at all, but rather, a variety of grass. From a design standpoint bamboo radiates a tropical and exotic feeling, at a time when an increasing number of people are looking for something to bring a more worldly style into the home.

Bamboo is attractive as a building material because it is very hard, strong and dimensionally stable. It is comparable in strength to northern red oak. This strength is why bamboo has traditionally been used for fishing poles. A fishing pole made from an oak or maple dowel would need to be three times the weight and twice the diameter to catch the same size fish, and the pole would snap with the slightest flaw in the grain. But a bamboo pole is light and flexible. I've seen surfboards and longbows made of bamboo also, which should give some indication of its strength and resilience.

The key to bamboo's strength is that each strand of the grain is perfectly straight. There isn't a tree in the world that grows as straight as bamboo. And there are no branches so there are no knots. The only anomalies are the knuckles that occur every few feet. These slight variances are usually quite consistent and dense, and do not significantly weaken the structure of the material. And while bamboo is a light material, it is also remarkably stable with 50-percent less contraction and expansion than wood.

Bamboo Basics

Although there are more than 1,000 species of bamboo, moso bamboo (Phyllostachys pubescens) is the type generally used for industrial harvest. It can grow to a height of 40 feet or more, and the diameter at the base can grow to 6 or 8 inches, maturing in four to six years. Bamboo is hollow, but the wall can be up to an inch thick at the base, getting thinner towards the top.

Bamboo lumber products are made from bamboo strips cut from the thick walls of the hollow stalk. The strips are treated with a solution of boric acid and lime to extract the starch that attracts termites or powder post beetles. The strips are then milled square on four sides and kiln-dried to 8- to 10-percent moisture content. The material is then sanded smooth for laminating. The strips can be laminated edge to edge to create a thin single-ply panel, or laminated again to each other, creating multi-ply bamboo plywood. The pieces can also be face-glued to create vertical grain panels.

Carefully selected, bamboo poles are harvested from forests in the Hunan, Jiangxi and Fujian provinces, from forests under the control of the Chinese Department of Forestry. Unlike traditional hardwoods, bamboo does not require replanting. Mature bamboo has an extensive root system that continues to regenerate. Unlike hardwood with a growth cycle many times longer, bamboo is truly a renewable resource. It grows in very dense forests and has been harvested and used in Asia for hundreds of years. Anything from chopsticks, paneling, roofs, walls and flooring are made of bamboo in many Asian countries, especially China.

I heard about bamboo flooring many years ago and found the idea fascinating. Although bamboo products have been around for centuries, they are usually made using the rounds or small strips. About two years ago, I discovered a product called Plyboo, from Smith and Fong, that is available in the United States as laminated bamboo panels and flooring materials in limited sizes and thicknesses. I started making dovetailed drawers out of it as an experiment and discovered the result was both beautiful and durable. As word spread, I began to receive calls from cabinetmakers asking about these drawers.

Bamboo dovetail drawer

Bamboo drawers are suitable for any high-end cabinet job. Currently, however, supply and demand pushes the cost of a bamboo dovetail drawer slightly higher than a typical maple drawer. The most suitable application for a bamboo drawer is to appeal to the ecologically conscious homeowner, since it does not have the same environmental impact as cutting down trees for wood products. The natural beauty of bamboo also offers a definitive style for a project where the owner wants to have something unique and interesting in their home. Many homes are now getting bamboo flooring and other products for the same reasons.

Working with Bamboo

The advantage of working with bamboo panels is that they are like solid wood, such that it is a solid material, but it has already been glued-up into panels thereby eliminating the need to glue-up for wide boards. The process is actually more like working with plywood in that regard, but the advantage over plywood is that you don't need to edge-band the bamboo panels because they are solid all the way through. Essentially, it's the best of both worlds — solid wood that comes in sheets. It's like plywood with built-in edge banding. Another advantage is the yield is far better than solid wood because the material is already glued-up and checked for defects, so the price per square foot is a better value.

Although bamboo machines very easily in the long direction, it can be a bit tricky across the grain. It can splinter when crosscutting, coping and tenoning across the end grain. The other drawback of a linear-fiber type grain structure is that if a crack develops, it can run the entire length of the board. Fortunately, this is very rare in my experience working with bamboo. The material does come in a variety of forms, however, so where a more structural board is needed, cross-banded laminated panels are available.

I was amazed at how cleanly and smoothly the material finishes out. With sharp tools, you can machine it to nearly any profile. The material sands easily with a wide belt sander or a profile sander, and takes sealer and finish very well.

I have seen many examples of products made from bamboo. Flooring, countertops, moldings, stair treads, railings and turnings all seem to finish-out beautifully if carefully machined. I have completed several small projects using bamboo for drawers, and each one seems to interest more people in the material and its related products. Bamboo presents a great alternative material — it's environmentally friendly, exceptionally strong, and people really like the look of it.

Sidebar

Breaking Down Bamboo

Bamboo panels are available in 4-by-8-foot sheets or narrower 16-by-72-inch panels. Panel thickness ranges from 2 to 19 millimeters. Bamboo machines very easily and sands well, and the end grain seals and fills easily with conventional finishes. Bamboo is available in horizontal and vertical laminations, and is offered in natural or amber colors. The darker amber color is achieved through a carbonization process, which is a heat treatment that causes a darkening of the color throughout the material.

• Bamboo flooring is installed and cared for like traditional hardwood floors. They can be nailed down, glued down or floated. Visit WFI Bamboo at www.wfibamboo.com or EcoTimber at www.ecotimber.com.

• Companies such as AlterECO have launched complete lines of furniture and custom cabinets made entirely of bamboo. AlterECO features solid bamboo raised-panel and flat-panel doors, as well as solid bamboo counter tops. Visit www.alterecofurniture.com.

• Western Dovetail Inc. manufactures custom-made, 100-percent solid bamboo drawers that are completely assembled and finished. Visit www.drawer.com.

• Smith & Fong Plyboo is available as plywood and veneer, as well as flooring and paneling. Visit www.plyboo.com.

Editor's Note: For more information on bamboo or custom-made dovetail drawers, call Western Dovetail at (800) 800-DOVE or email Max Hunter at [email protected]. Plyboo is a registered trademark of Smith & Fong.

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